Learn How to Knit


PROCEDURE ... SECOND ROW and SUCCEEDING ROWS

1. Change the needle with the stitches into the left hand.
2. The empty needle is in the right hand. The yarn is over the first finger, under the second, over the third, and under the fourth above the middle joint (see FIG. 16).
NOTE: When using a long needle many knitters tuck one end of the right needle under the right arm. This relieves strain and enables you to knit faster.
3. Insert right needle into the front of the first stitch on the left needle from the right side and slip the first stitch off the left needle onto the right needle without knitting. Do this with the first stitch of each succeeding row and you will have a smooth edge known as a chain edge (FIG. 22).
4. Bring your yarn to the back of your work by passing it between the two needles.   5. Proceed as before (FIG. 22). Watch your work closely.

                     Fig.22.jpg (10036 bytes)
If you drop a stitch follow these instructions: Always pick up dropped stitches in Stockinette Stitch on right side of work. Using a hook, insert hook through dropped stitch, draw yarn of row above through loop forming new loop.  Work in this manner until all stitches are picked up being careful not to twist stitches.  In ribbing, pick up dropped purl stitch on reverse side of work.  In garter stitch, pick up stitches alternately from front.

NOTE: It is not necessary or even desirable to use the chain edge in all cases. It makes a smooth edge on straight knitting. The closed edge produced by knitting every stitch is especially used when shaping various parts of a garment.
 

BINDING OFF
When you have worked 10 rows you are ready to finish off the swatch. This process is called binding off.

PROCEDURE
1. Slip the first stitch on the row off the left needle onto the right needle without knitting.
2. Knit the second stitch very loosely. (There are two stitches on the right needle).
3. Insert the left needle through the left side of the first stitch (FIG. 23).
4. Keep the yarn in the right hand very loose so that the second stitch remains loose.
5. Bring the first stitch forward over the second stitch and over the tip of the needle so that one stitch remains on the needle (FIG. 23).
6. Knit the next stitch loosely.  There are two stitches on the right needle.

Fig.23

7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 (FIG. 23).
8. When you come to the last
stitch, clip your yarn about three inches from the needle. Bring the loose end through the stitch remaining on the needle and pull tightly. Darn in loose end so that it will not show.
NOTE: Beginners have a tendency to bind off too tightly. To prevent this, many knitters use a needle two sizes larger in the right hand.

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PURL STITCH
The purl stitch has two differences from the knit stitch.
1. In plain knitting you keep your yarn at the back of your work. In purling you bring it to the front of your work.
2. In plain knitting you insert your needle in the front of the stitch from the left side. In purling you
insert your needle in the front of the stitch from the right side.
The purl stitch is not used alone, but when it is combined with the knit stitch in straight knitting, it makes another stitch known as stockinette stitch.


Fig.24

STOCKINETTE STITCH
In straight knitting the stockinette stitch is produced by knitting one row and purling the next row. It has two different surfaces— the front as in FIG. 24 and the back as in FIG. 25. Make a sample or a swatch to practice the stockinette stitch.

Fig.25.jpg (11310 bytes)

BLOCKING
Perhaps you have noticed some knitted garments that look smooth and finished and others that look quite the opposite. If you wish your garment to be well fitted you must block it properly and you must block it before you sew up the seams. The directions give standard measurements at various points.
1. Place your sweater on a flat padded surface having right sides of sweater together. Pin the edges to the measurements given in the instructions with rust proof pins, each 1/4 inch apart.
NOTE: If your garment is made in separate pieces, such as Back, Front and Sleeves, two identical pieces may be blocked at one time.
2. Place a damp cloth over the pieces already pinned, and press with a hot iron. Do not lean heavily on the iron, but press sufficiently to allow the steam to go through the garment.
3. Leave garment pinned until thoroughly dry.
4. Remove pins and sew up seams as specified in directions.
5. Press seams on wrong side.
NOTE: Ribbing may be pressed very lightly but should not be stretched unless when specified.

MAKING A SEAM

After the pieces of the garment are blocked, place the right sides together and pin seams so that all parts of garment are evenly matched. Sew with the same yarn used in knitting. If your garment is in one piece make a seam of backstitches 1/4 inch from edge, beginning at the bottom and continue to the end of sleeves. Do not pull the stitches too tight so that the finished seams will not pucker.  Press seams open and flat.  If the garment has shoulder seams it would be well to reinforce them with a tape.


MAKING A BUTTONHOLE
Knit to position for buttonhole as specified in directions. Cast off three or more stitches and knit to end of row. Work next row in pattern as far as cast off stitches. Turn your work, cast on as many stitches as were cast off in the previous row (FIG. 39). Complete the row. This finished buttonhole looks like (FIG. 40).

Fig.39 Fig.40
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