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Excerpt from the Modern Priscilla Cook Book, 1924
FROZEN DESSERTS
The texture of frozen desserts depends upon the nature of the mixture and the proportion of ice and salt used in freezing it.
A mixture which is given body by cream or eggs, or is thickened with a starch or gelatine, will be smoother than one containing a large proportion of water and nothing to thicken it.
For smooth, fine-grained ice cream, sherbet, or water ice, three parts of ice to one of salt should be used. For frappes, a coarser texture is desired and equal parts of ice and salt are used. Mousses and parfaits, rich mixtures frozen without stirring, require two parts of ice to one of salt.
The ice should be broken in pieces small enough to prevent the formation of large air spaces between, but not so fine that melting will take place rapidly. The salt and ice should be thoroughly mixed before putting them in the freezer.
With any mixture that is stirred during the freezing process, the can should not be more than three-quarters full, to allow for swelling.
The crank should be turned slowly at first, and then more rapidly in order to beat air into the mixture as it begins to freeze.
When the mixture is frozen the water which has accumulated in the pail should be poured off and the freezer refilled with four parts of ice to one of salt.
Ice creams and sherbets should stand for at least an hour before serving. This ripening process improves the flavor and the texture.
Mousses and parfaite require from two to four hours to freeze, de¬pending upon the richness of the mixture and the size of the mold.
To mold ices and creams, pack the frozen mixture solidly into chilled molds, and fill the molds completely. Cover with heavy waxed paper, put on the covers, and seal the edges with strips of cloth dipped in melted lard or other solid fat. Bury the molds in ice and salt. To unmold, rinse with cold water and wipe dry, remove the covers, invert the molds on a platter, and wrap for a moment with a cloth wrung out of hot water.
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