Excerpt from the Modern Priscilla Cook Book, 1924

FISH
Fish is important in the dietary as a source of protein. The house¬keeper values it, too, because of the variety it lends to her menus.
From a dietary point of view there are two classes of fish—lean or dry-meated fish like haddock, cod and halibut, and fat fish such as mackerel, salmon, shad and blue fish.
In purchasing fish one of the most important points to consider is its freshness. When fresh the flesh is firm and elastic so that it springs back when pressed with the finger. The eyes are bright and clear and the gills bright red in color. It is not strong in odor.
Fish is usually cleaned and dressed at the market and need only be wiped with a damp cloth to remove any loose scales and clotted blood. Sometimes, however, it reaches the kitchen in its natural condition,
The first step in dressing fish is to remove the scales. This is done by scraping with a dull knife, beginning at the tail and working toward the head. The entrails are then removed by slitting the underside of the fish with a sharp knife from the head nearly to the tail and drawing them out with the fingers. The head and tail may be removed or left on as preferred. Large fish usually have the head and tail removed, except sometimes when they are to be baked. Small fish are often cooked with the head and tail on.
To skin a fish remove the fins and a strip of skin the length of the back bone. Loosen the skin on one side at the bony part and draw it off, separating from the flesh with a knife when necessary.
To bone a fish run a sharp knife close to the backbone and ribs, beginning at the tail. Remove all the flesh from one side in a single piece. Small bones that remain may be picked out with the fingers.
A fillet of fish is a small piece with skin and bone removed. Large fish like halibut are cut into slices crosswise and the slices divided into smaller pieces. Small fish are boned and cut in pieces of the desired size.
Fish may be boiled, steamed, baked, broiled, fried or sautéed. The method of cooking to be chosen depends upon the nature of the fish.

BOILING.—Small cod or haddock and thick slices of larger fish like salmon and halibut may be boiled or steamed to good advantage. Water in which fish is boiled should be salted and have a little lemon juice or vinegar added to it to keep the flesh light in color. Steaming has the advantage of retaining all the nutriment and flavor, but it is more difficult to cook seasoning into the fish. It is wise to tie fish in a piece of cheesecloth for boiling or steaming so that it can be handled without breaking.

BAKING.—For baking, whole fish of medium size are most often used. A stuffing adds flavor, and a few slices of bacon or salt pork.' spread over the fish while it is cooking supply fat. Small fish and slices of large fish are sometimes cooked in a hot oven instead of being broiled.

BROILING.—Small and medium-sized fish like mackerel, bluefish and haddock are prepared for broiling by splitting down the back. Slices of halibut, sword fish and salmon may also be broiled. The fish should be wiped as dry as possible, sprinkled with salt and pepper and placed on a well-greased broiler. Whether the skin or flesh side of a whole fish should be broiled first is a debatable point. Broiling the flesh side first prevents the escape of juices, but if the skin side is done first the fish is easier to handle. It is difficult to turn fish during the broiling in the ordinary broiling oven. For this reason it is best to cook one side thoroughly before turning.

FRYING or Sautéing.— Fish of any kind is often fried or sautéed, although in a dietary sense the lean fish are better adapted to this method of preparation. Small fish are fried whole and larger ones made into fillets. Fish should be wiped dry, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour or crumbs, beaten eggs, and crumbs again, and fried in deep fat until browned. For sautéing, fish is rolled in flour or corn meal. Salt pork is a particularly good fat to use.

There are various kinds of sauces suitable for serving with fish, but acid sauces are best used with fish richest in fat, while lean fish prepared without the addition of fat call for rich sauces. Lemon may be used as a garnish for fish, and served with it.
Many varieties of fish may be purchased in cans, and others are preserved by salting or smoking, so that fish is always available, even far inland.
Shell fish are important for their unique and delicate flavors. The distinctive dishes of which they are the basis solve' many a menu problem.

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